There are many ways to eat in Italy from the most simple to the most formal. Kathy and I tried each in our short visit to Italy. Each has its own pleasures. I have noticed the small town restaurant needs a reservation if not more so than in a big city. I think in part because the small town family-run restaurant has just one seating and you have their full attention for the night
There is an expression, A tavola non si invecchia, “At the table one does not age”, that speaks to the notion of the good feelings that come with dining, whether at home or in any sort of eatery. Italians, unlike Americans, do not adopt special restaurant manners, but instead approach a restaurant meal as a source of pleasure and social relaxation. One of the joys of eating in Italy is to observe the behavior of diners nearby. Kathy and I having only each other to talk to on this sabbatical were glad we are extroverts and at times could take a break from talking and enjoy watching the people around us. The best was one night at Locanda di Nonna Gelsa, in the village of Niccone. As Kathy told Chiara, “this is the best 50 euros we have spent so far in Italy.” Chiara is the charming hostess who knows both English and French. This is a very good family-style restaurant. I knew it to be family when she decides to start and later stoke the fireplace next to me. I felt like reaching over and helping.
What also made it the best 50 spent yet was the people watching. Each mise-en-tavola seems to be a small drama, whether tragic or comic. We delighted in watching four generations of a family carry on precisely as they would at home. Small children were doted upon and given relatively free rein in terms of self-expression. The Elderly relatives were closely watched to see that they were eating, as they should. Everyone plays and laughs, with an occasional outburst of anger.
One of the big surprises is how the table is simply a social gathering. And here is the surprise. It is common in Italy for male friends to go out for dinner as a group while their wives and girlfriends stay home. This is a legacy I find out since the days when Italian women did not go out unaccompanied. I am told that in Fellini’s I Vitelloni (1953) in which Alberto Sordi seems to be on a continuous night out with the boys reflect this idea. While today his contemporaries are less wild, the tradition of men going out for a good meal endures.
On this night out from my vantage point, I watched two tables (Kathy watched the multigenerational table). One was a table of two older men in their late 60’s and the other of two young guys (that would be my age, no laughter please). I will comment only on the older guys. Unlike other tables these two did not want to order the table wine. They bought what had to be a good year by the way they breathed in the aromas, held the bottle, the way they filled each others glass, read the label and then comparing it to some of their best wine they have raised in their lifetime. They were oblivious to everyone else in the restaurant except Chiara. They knew her well and you could tell coming here was a ritual, a tradition, and a commitment to a soul friend. I knew this had to be a regular guy’s night out when they got up laughed and laughed and joked with Chiara and then left without paying as Chiara began writing down a new number to their running tab.
For me on the first visit, (though not to be my only in the two weeks there), what I prized was the “Wild Boar Stew” though more like slow cooked pork smothered in a sauce that melted in my mouth. For them, a conversation that never dragged, a bottle of wine shared together between two close friends over a good meal. A tavola no si invecchia “At the table one does not age”.
What those two guys have we men in the church need and I want personally, a commitment, a ritual, and a tradition. A tavola non si invecchia, “At the table one does not age.”
Guys, we need good male connections. Heart of a Warrior is a Men’s Wednesday night study led by Virgil Bakken and Mark Peske. There are a variety of Men’s Small Groups offered this fall and listed on the Small Group brochure. Oct 15-18th a group of guys are heading to Adventurous Christians a Covenant Wilderness Center along the Gunflint Trail. This will be a time for fellowship in the outdoors and to plan a few men’s events. Also, Kevin Jackson desires to give leadership to the men’s ministry. See Kevin if you would like to help.